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This report is about two distinctly various trips. The 1st to Costa Rica, and the 2nd to Mexico.



It really is a clear, moonless evening when we assemble for our pilgrimage to the seashore. I can not recognize how we are going to see anything at all in the blackness, but the guide's eyes seem to be to penetrate even the darkest shadows. We start walking, our vision adjusting slowly.

We have come to Tortuguero Nationwide Park, in northeast Costa Rica, to witness sea turtles nesting. When the domain of only biologists and locals, turtle-viewing is now one of the more well-known activities in ecotourism friendly Costa Rica. As the most important nesting web site in the western Caribbean, Tortuguero sees more than its fair share of site visitors. In fact given that 1980, the yearly number of observers has gone from 240 to 50,000.

The manual stops, points out two deep furrows in the sand - the signal of a turtle's presence - and places a finger to his lips, creating the 'shhh' gesture. The nesting females can be spooked by the slightest noise or light. He gathers us about a crater in the seashore inside it is an tremendous creature. We hear her rasp and sigh as she brushes aside sand for her nest.

In whispers, we comment on her plight and the solitude of her task, the minimal survival charge of her hatchlings because only 1 of every single 5000 will make it past the birds, crabs, sharks, seaweed and human pollution to adulthood.

We are all mesmerized by the turtle's bulk. Even though we are not permitted to get also near, we can catch the glint of her eyes. She does not seem to be to register our presence at all. The whirring sound of discharged sand continues. After a bit the manual moves us vacation spots away. My eyes have adapted to the darkness now, and I can make out other gigantic oblong kinds labouring gradually up the beach in a silent, purposeful armada.

As the chanting reached a crescendo and the incense thickened to a fog, the chicken's neck snapped like a pencil. The seemingly ageless executioner sat on a carpet of pine needles, surrounded by hundreds of candles, his eyes fixed on a brightly painted saintly icon, The guy took a swig from a Coca-Cola bottle, a indicator not of globalization, but of the expurgating power of soda due to the fact the Tzotzil individuals believe that evil spirits can be expulsed by way of a robust burp. Right here, inside the church of San Juan de Chamula, this kind of faith isn't going to seern all that far-fetched.

This is the Zapatista heartland of Chiapas, a misplaced globe of dense jungle and indigenous villages in which descendants of the Maya cling to the rituals of their ancestors. Throughout the region, the iconography of Subcomandante Marcos, guerrilla leader and poster little one of the struggle for indigenous rights, reveals a continuing undercurrent of rebellion. San Cristobal : de las Casas, 1 of Mexico's most alluring towns, was the web site of an armed Zapatista revolt in 1994.

Outside San Cristobal, the village of San Juan de Chamula is practically a law unto itself, with its own judges, jail and council. Timeless rituals are unveiled here, the place girls sell brightly coloured, hand-woven garments in the main square, returning property at midday to prepare a meal for their husbands, a lot of of whom are shared. Men can have up to three wives at a time, and I am not particular to be envious or not!! Every single 12 months for the duration of the pre Lenten festival, probably the most fascinating time to go to, the village's guys run barefoot through blazing wheat.

4 kilometres from Chamula, San Lorenzo Zinacantan is equally fascinating. Here, the males, in red-and-white ponchos and flat hats strewn with ribbons, which are tied if they are married, loose if not, launch rockets skyward to stir the gods into sending rain. The women pummel tortillas and weave textiles, always with a watchful eye on the sky due to the fact a lot of houses have gone up in smoke as a outcome of rogue fireworks.